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  Corvetteforum.com
  1968 - 1982: C3 Corvettes Archived Topics
  Whooooie! The Glass is Back IN !! +10 Tips for reassembly/restoration.

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Author Topic:   Whooooie! The Glass is Back IN !! +10 Tips for reassembly/restoration.
Juliet Page
unregistered
posted 02-21-2000 12:06 AM           Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I got the glass & the PW mechanism back into the vette today. I've compiled a list of tips from my experiences below.

Greg welded the PS bracket for me a few weeks ago. See my post about an extra brace we included to strengthen it. I painted the new welded area with Eastwood's cold galvanizing compound. (Looks like flat grey paint, not metallic at all). The black portions have been repainted where needed. The inside of the door was cleaned. The PW & lock & door latch mechanisms are sparkly with fresh lubricant! The inside of the door has been sanded in the rusty spots and repainted. The edges where the bolts had worn off the overspray have been repainted. The plastic cover piece over the lock mechanism (aft top inside door) has been cleaned & put back. The fuzzy glass rattle guides have been velcroed. The glass is back in and whaddyknow, it even goes up & down... FAST! YOWZA! Tomorrow I tackle the window up/down/in/out adjustments. It's not too far off for a first guess.

I've got a few tips:
1. After you remove all the bolts from the window glass, get the threaded slider stud off the glass with it down about 1/2 way (not up higher like the service manual implies). This gives more maneuvering room to get the glass off the front bolt. You must have the other 2 bolts out first.
2. When cleaning the latch / lock without removal stuff a BUNCH of newspapers inside the door to catch the drips.... and don't let it run forward, it's hard to get a hand up there to wipe the excess out. Be sure to put a rag under the back corner where all the goo will drain, and wipe it frequently so it doesn't damage the paint.
3. Don't loose the rubber backing on the little fuzzy (sorta like velcro) door rattle pieces. You'll never find that alone and will have to buy new pieces with metric screws. Carefully pull off the fuzzy part and epoxy the rubber then use outdoor industrial strength soft side of velcro over the old piece.
4. Make sure the anti rattle foam is on the power window motor between the motor and the black cover plate.
5. Don't overtighten the small cover plate bolts. Bubba did with mine and 2 of the 6 screws were missing... because he had stripped them I've since found out.
6. Spray cleaner into the round sliders (they have several little holes in them), you'll be amazed at how much black gunk comes out.
7. When reattaching the large horizontal bar, keep the front disconnected, raise the window all the way up. Then get the back piece connected to the back vertical rail. Then slide the horizontal bar forward onto the front X piece.
8. While all the innards are out, look up at the horizontal metal channel which backs the outside top of the door. Mine had some surface rust over the factory overspray. I sanded & painted it while the doors were empty. You'll never see the rusting when looking down into the door from the top glass channel.
9. If the inside horizontal rod for the door latch or the outer edge vertical rod for the door lock clunks rotate their rubber rings 180 degrees and move their position about an inch one way or the other. Put some lubricant on the door itself where this rubber piece slides to prevent squeaking.
10. Put the clip on the Motor bracket to hold the PW wire after it's assembled & bolted & plugged in. That way you can get the wires facing the right direction and not bent. It's a bear to get back off in those limited quarters when inside.

Well, one down, one more to go.


------------------
~Juliet ...overlooking Mill Creek on the Chesapeake Bay...
Loaded Bridgehampton Blue on Blue '70 350/300Hp TH400 with a White Ragtop

[This message has been edited by Juliet Page (edited 02-21-2000).]

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Lidia
Senior Member
Cruise-In II Veteran

Posts: 174
From: Jacksonville, FL
Registered: Feb 2000

posted 02-21-2000 01:17 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Lidia   Click Here to Email Lidia     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Juliet!

Congratulations are in order!

Thanks for the tips. I've cut and pasted them so I'll have them if I ever need to fool with the door glass. Now get some rest, you're up way late.

Lidia

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gtr1999
Senior Member

Posts: 1609
From: CT
Registered: Aug 1999

posted 02-21-2000 10:08 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for gtr1999     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Great points Juliet, but I have one suggestion from past experience. I found it much easier to remove the latch mechanism to clean and lube it rather then trying to do it in the door. I tried both ways and to really clean the mech you have to either soak it or spray it down with a can of brake cleaner.
Gary

------------------
GTR
Wallingford,CT
'69 350,4 spd,3:36 conv.
'72 350,TH400,3:08 coupe.

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fastguy
unregistered
posted 02-21-2000 10:21 AM           Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Since Greg has a welder, I would advise welding up where the stripped screw holes are in the door. You must be very careful about the weld spatter though, it can ruin any interior part it touches and damage the window. I found out the hard way that side windows can get "peppered" by MIG spatter. Make sure the window is up before he welds.

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Mack76
Senior Member

Posts: 1599
From: Lufkin, Texas
Registered: Feb 1999

posted 02-21-2000 01:48 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mack76   Click Here to Email Mack76     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks for the tips... I'll probably be doing this in the next month or so...

...Or maybe I could remove the doors and ship them to you for repair?
------------------
Later,
Mack76
76ZZ4

[This message has been edited by Mack76 (edited 02-21-2000).]

[This message has been edited by Mack76 (edited 02-21-2000).]

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killain
Senior Member

Posts: 720
From: Essington, PA USA
Registered: Aug 1999

posted 02-21-2000 07:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for killain   Click Here to Email killain     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks Juliet:

I really gotta give you credit on the windows, On my 79 they were and are without a doubt the worst project I have ever undertaken. I told you about how small my hands are and trying to get the &^%$#damn window to go up & down in the right pitch and to set right was so bad I got a headache just trying to get the wiring back into the motor housing. Oh, And thanks for the tips. I've copied them onto a disk for future reference. your Vette is really stunning.
Killain

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Juliet Page
unregistered
posted 02-21-2000 09:31 PM           Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
You know, it's not as bad as one might think. The procedure doesn't take a lot of brute strength, what it takes is TIME, patience, attention to detail & a considerable amount of gentle fiddling.

I compiled my glass & PW mechanism removal procedure for a friend but thought some of you might also benefit from it... plus in a few weeks time when I get to the other door & have forgotten how I did the first I'll be able to search the archives for a memory jog.

Don't reach inside with the keys in the ignition ON the PW gear / spring can take out fingers etc. You'll need a 2nd set of hands to support the glass.... or at least I did! Basically you need to remove the 3 bolts holding the glass in place before it will come out.

You need to take the interior door panels off & the cover on the PW assy. The short horizontal slider (about 8") needs to be unbolted. Also remove the 1" x 2" fuzzy things attached to the top inside edge. I loosened them and dropped them down and fished them out the bottom. Then raise /lower the window so that you have access to the 2 bolts which hold the glass to the horizontal slider bar which is attached to the X on the PW mechanism. These you get to with a nut driver through the 2 access holes (easy). You get one, then move the window up / down to get the other one lined up. Those are the 2 aft bolts... piece of cake.

Then the tough one... in front which has a bolt in the front vertical slider which goes through a hole in the glass. Pay attention to the washer / rubber gasket sequence. You'll need to reach inside and around to the outside of the glass to unbolt this. It's a stud on the teflon (?) slider thing and doesn't come out easily. I was able to fit a small socket wrench in there to loosen it & then used just my fingers so I didn't loose all the washers etc.

Once the glass is unbolted (but the stud is still through the fwd hole) you can lift up the rear side and tilt the top front inwards (bottom near the stud outwards) to disconnect it from the captive bolt on the front vertical slider. That's the hard part & I suspect if one's not careful they can break a corner off the front of the glass. It helps to have a hand inside to guide and someone else tilting the glass.

Once the glass is out the rest is straight forward (patience& juggling required to manipulate it out the little access hole). You probably want to remove the front & rear vertical sliders (easy) for more maneuvering room inside before you tackle the PW motor & bracket assy. Very last unbolt the PW brackets. The service manual says to do this early on but it just screws things up. Then disconnect the wire & don't forget the wire is also in a clip on the front of the bracket. Remove the long horizontal bar & the short horizontal bar so all you have is the PW assy & the big "X". Then that can be slid forward so you get the back end of the X out the back of the door & it follows with the front which has the bracket & motor.

Before you take the mechanism to the workbench, adjust the actuator height so that you can bolt the gear to the backing plate (safety issue). That spring is VERY STRONG. You can probably do this outside the car with the power plugged in as it's *imperative* before you take apart the rest of the mechanism. I didn't disassemble any further so I left that step out. My understanding is that to disassemble (like if you need to replace gear) you need to drill out rivets. I didn't need to do that. I just cleaned, lubed and welded the bracket (all as one component).

Any more questions just holler while it's still fresh in my mind. I think I got this all written down correctly. ~Juliet

[This message has been edited by Juliet Page (edited 02-21-2000).]

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jbs75
Senior Member

Posts: 96
From: Chapel Hill NC
Registered: Jun 99

posted 02-22-2000 09:41 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for jbs75   Click Here to Email jbs75     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
did you put the plastic button back in the front bottom corner of the glass? Mine was removed, and I replaced it. However I'm thinking of removing it again because it tends to force the glass out of the rubber channel when almost closed, stalling the motor.

Jim

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Juliet Page
unregistered
posted 02-22-2000 10:09 AM           Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Jim, Are you referring to the button that's just through the glass and doesn't attach to anything? I haven't noticed a problem like that on mine. Yes I do have it in place now, I'm missing the one in the very rear however. What is it hitting? Is it causing a glass rotation? The up motion is limited by the rubber coated crescent shaped metal stops in the fixed vertical sliders. I guess I'm not quite understanding your question & which channel the glass is being forced out of. ~Juliet

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bfrance
Senior Member

Posts: 246
From: Eau Claire, WI
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 02-22-2000 06:18 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for bfrance   Click Here to Email bfrance     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Juliet,
My windows are slow to go up and down. Is that what prompted you to do the rebuild? If so, maybe this is just what the doctor ordered.

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Mack76
Senior Member

Posts: 1599
From: Lufkin, Texas
Registered: Feb 1999

posted 02-22-2000 08:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mack76   Click Here to Email Mack76     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
O.K. Juliet... I got the doors off and they're comin' to ya UPS... Remember, "Money is no object"... Just fix 'em up right and ship 'em back and I'll gladly pay you next Tuesday... "The check is in the mail"... So to speak.

Oh, yeah... Can you kinda make it fast? I'm looking kinda funny, drivin' around without any doors. One kid asked me if I was a mail man...

------------------
Later,
Mack76
76ZZ4

[This message has been edited by Mack76 (edited 02-22-2000).]

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Juliet Page
unregistered
posted 02-22-2000 11:53 PM           Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I'm going to answer these in order... hang on a sec Mack.

BFrance, yes my windows were slow. Actually that's an understatement. They were hopelessly ANEMIC! I would have to open the door and grab the glass and lift them up with my finger on the PW button the last 3 inches. The other reason I needed to tackle the project is because of a heavy duty door clunk! The slowness was due to goopy, stickey, dried up old lubricant and the clunk was the broken power window bracket allowing the HEAVY motor to clunk back & forth inside the door, merely suspended from the top 2 bolts. The broken bracket also allowed the PW motor & bracket to rotate and rip open & elongate the lower bracket bolt hole on the interior metal. This also caused the alignment of the mechanism to be off slightly. I'm sure that contributed to the slow glass motion, though probably to a lesser degree.

Mack, OK sure! I can handle it! No need to send ca$h. Just put a certified check in the mail (if you ever want to see your doors again.) Since my spare time is booked between now and my retirement date (just around the corner, in 2025) I'll need to take unpaid work leave if it's a rush job. So if I give you a 25% discount on my internal job billing rate that would put the door restoration work somewhere in the $85 / hour range. ...and I should also mention that perfection is achieved REALLY REALLY SLOWLY! LOL! Now if you're willing to wait till my schedule clears up we can cut that hourly rate down even further. I figure I can always sell a set of nicely restored doors off a '76 on eBay if that check somehow gets lost in the mail.

At least you didn't say that the neighborhood kids thought you looked funny driving around without your drawers. ~Juliet

[This message has been edited by Juliet Page (edited 02-23-2000).]

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jbs75
Senior Member

Posts: 96
From: Chapel Hill NC
Registered: Jun 99

posted 02-23-2000 08:53 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for jbs75   Click Here to Email jbs75     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
yep it's the button through the glass, button is on "outside" of glass. Mine hits the door reinforcing box beam as it comes up and slides along it. It appears that it was supposed to originally do that; I wonder if this was one of those manfacturing tolerance changes where they started leaving it out.

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Juliet Page
unregistered
posted 02-23-2000 10:36 AM           Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
jbs75, Do you have a T-top or a convertible? Reason I ask is because the convertible tops are adjustable in terms of height etc. I haven't touched my ragtop since I had the new one installed in Dec. I'm wondering if maybe the ragtop is too tall, requiring you to have the window go up further, above it's designed range of motion?

Along those same lines, you might want to check the weatherstripping at the top of the door opening. Maybe it's compressed too much or the wrong kind or something (??) again requiring the glass up to high. If you have a T-top that might also apply. ??? I'm just throwing out some ideas here....

I haven't finalized all my window adjustments yet (HW due tomorrow ..UGH) but when I get back to it I'll keep your situation in mind and see if something jumps out at me. ~Juliet

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jbs75
Senior Member

Posts: 96
From: Chapel Hill NC
Registered: Jun 99

posted 02-23-2000 12:48 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for jbs75   Click Here to Email jbs75     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
mine's a t-top and the gaskets have been replaced. everything was fine until i put the button back in, so i think i'll just remove it again. adjusting the windows can be aggravating; leave your door panels off until everything settles down(1-2 weeks). the position where you set it and where it EVENTUALLY wants to be are different enough that you have to zero in on the spot.

Jim

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KED74
Senior Member

Posts: 3127
From: SoCal!
Registered: Aug 1999

posted 02-23-2000 06:31 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for KED74   Click Here to Email KED74     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hello Juliet,
Man, I remeber the days when you were still driving the Mustang and hunting for the right Corvette (for you) to buy.
GOOD FOR YOU! Keep it up!
Karl KED74
PS real quick tip. Many times, you can use a paper clip to take up the worn out space (in screw bolt holes) made by Bubba.
Paper clips are made from stainless steel i.e. no rust! Many different thicknesses, too! This may work in many problem areas. It's your call.

[This message has been edited by KED74 (edited 02-23-2000).]

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Mack76
Senior Member

Posts: 1599
From: Lufkin, Texas
Registered: Feb 1999

posted 02-23-2000 09:16 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mack76   Click Here to Email Mack76     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Juliet...

How come you get to retire so early? I figger I'm done in 2047.... I'll be 100.

Oh yeah... I sent the doors air-freight collect... Lemme know when you get 'em...

Like I said... Money is no object... Charge it to General Motors, Inc. DEtroit, Mich.

------------------
Later,
Mack76
76ZZ4

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Juliet Page
unregistered
posted 02-23-2000 11:31 PM           Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Jim, thanks for the tip. The door panels will be off anyways while I hunt down 2 screws on the PW motor access cover Bubba lost somewhere long ago.

Karl, Thanks, I've already tried the stainless wire trick. It's holding OK in 2 places. I'll find out about the others when I get the right screws. BTW, I got the vette in December. I decided to keep the Pony car too though. Since the vette has only 45k mi (had 44k when I got it ) and I'm the second owner, and it's got a pretty high % of original stuff on it I just couldn't bring myself to do the daily thing with all the looney drivers in DC.

Mack, I thought the whole idea was to get out early while you still had some livin' in ya!

~Juliet

[This message has been edited by Juliet Page (edited 02-24-2000).]

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Juliet Page
unregistered
posted 02-24-2000 03:57 PM           Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Jim, I went back to look closely at the front button on my '70. Mine passes on the inside of the door box reinforcing beam. It doesn't hit it at all. There's clearance between the outside of the button and the box. Is it possible your button is to thick? Is it a repro or original one? I can try to measure the thickness of mine if you thing that might help. ~Juliet

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TedH
Senior Member

Posts: 1370
From: Tampa, Fl, USA
Registered: Feb 99

posted 04-03-2000 02:49 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for TedH   Click Here to Email TedH     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Juliet:

I performed a search on all 'door' threads and found your name with the majority. Have saved them for reference during my planned door rebuild. Thanks for posting this info.

Thanks!

[This message has been edited by TedH (edited 04-03-2000).]

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