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Senior Member

384 posts [100%]
Roswell Georgia

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 Rear main seal: Any tips on replacing?

This will be one of my winter projects. I have read how to do it but I was wondering if there may be and tricks or pit-falls to watch for.


Senior Member

3211 posts [100%]
Easton PA

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 Re: Rear main seal: Any tips on replacing? (KJL)

Good question, I was thinking about doing the same to mine. First I have to get to the damn motor mounts to lift the engine

82 Collectors Edition
"I hope I finish it soon!!"
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Senior Member

1876 posts [100%]
galloway,new jersey

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 Re: Rear main seal: Any tips on replacing? (82dukman)

ive replaced rear main seals plenty of times on vettes with out raising the motor mounts,i usually release it from the idler arm and let the steering linkage hang a little bit then unbolt pan and remove unbolt oil pump and remove then 2 bolts on rear main.

1973 2002 electron blue midnight blue billet tach drive dist. msd6a,3.70,rpm airgap intake,holley750,2 1/2 exuast flowmasters,125 shot nos,sportsman2 heads..(building new short block)360 c.i.zz4 roller cam w/1.6 rollers

Senior Member

256 posts [100%]
Aurora On

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 Re: Rear main seal: Any tips on replacing? (KJL)

If you have a two-piece seal, the easy part is getting it out.
After you have the oil pan and flywheel cover off, you need to remove the oil pump and main bearing cap.
Most people replace the pump, or at least the distributor shaft and sleeve "while they're at it".
The two piece seal is easily pushed out (use a brass punch so as not to damage the harder steel crank).
Putting the new one in is trickier...oil/lube the backside, but be careful not to get oil on the mating surfaces of the two halves.
The Hayes manual has a good procedure for this, but it is different in two different parts of the book.
In one section they say to offset the seal rotationally relative to the bearing cap (5-10 degrees), in the other they say
to line them up flush. I did it flush, but my engine is not running yet, so I can't say it was a success.
Others here have said it doesn't matter.
Make sure the "lip" on the seal is on the correct side of the seal - triple check so you have no doubt later.
The lip is positioned on the inside, so that the pressure of the oil forces it against the crank shaft.
There is a little metal tab that is supplied that helps guide the upper half in as you push it around the crank.
The lower half goes into the bearing cap by just pushing it in place.
You gut some RTF sealer on the bearing bolt mating surfaces and bolt it back according to specs.
Pretty easy actually.
I can't speak for the single piece seal.

[Modified by Ace77, 11:25 AM 10/18/2001]

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